Escaping the Crowds in Summer in Zakopane
Zakopane in the months of July and August is uncomfortably busy. The roads are gridlocked, restaurants are packed and Krupowki street has a tsunami of bodies ebbing and flowing along it. Visitors seeking the peace and tranquility mountain trails should afford, will be appalled at the relentless lines of trekkers on the Tatra trails, and valleys seem so mobbed visitors must question why they bothered to make the effort to come to Zakopane in the first place. It is a fact for example, that during these months around 10,000 people per day make their way to the beautiful Morskie Oko lake. Why would anyone want to walk for 2 hours to stand in a line to purchase a drink at a mountain hut and sit on a lake shore with thousands of other people?
Giewont mountain and Kasprowy Wierch are no better. Cable car queues stretch long distances even by 9am. Trekkers literally have stand in line to wait their turn to hang onto the chains needed make the final assent onto Giewont. Even more challenging routes such as Orla Perc are too busy with ill equipped scramblers causing bottlenecks on exposed, tricky sections where quite frankly, they really should not be. The situation on Orla Perc now means there has to be a one way system between Swinica and Kozi Wierch and from Zawrat to Swinica, although many people do not heed this.
So the question is, is it worth going to Zakopane in summer? The answer is yes and no!
If I am being totally honest, it really is best to visit outwith this season. May, June and late September can bring warmth and more tranquillity. October and March are quieter but the only drawback is the weather is more unstable.
The issues with visiting outwith summer are that from November to June, the Tatra valleys in Slovakia are closed to the public. The mountains anytime from October to May become caked in snow making any mountain ascent only possible if you are an experienced winter mountaineer with the correct equipment. Having said that though, there are some easier peaks that are accessible and the bonus is that lower trails are refreshingly people free.
The issues with visiting outwith summer are that from November to June, the Tatra valleys in Slovakia are closed to the public. The mountains anytime from October to May become caked in snow making any mountain ascent only possible if you are an experienced winter mountaineer with the correct equipment. Having said that though, there are some easier peaks that are accessible and the bonus is that lower trails are refreshingly people free.
For summer peace, try the suggestions below.
Trek 1 - Zazadnia/Rusinowa Polana/Gęsia Szyja (1489 m)
For this trek, jump on a Morskie Oko minibus and ask to be let off at Zazadnia. This is a parking area on a bend in the road on the way to Morskie Oko. Cost should be around 12zl.
The trails mentioned on this page - Zazadnia - provide a welcome break from the crowds in the summer, especially the black trail affording fantastic views over the Bielovodska valley to the mountains beyond. Although Rusinowa Polana itself can still be busy, it is possible to find your own space away from other groups.
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| Shearing sheep by hand on Rusinowa Polana |
Trek 2 - Bielovodska Dolina
The Bielovodska Dolina (valley) is in Slovakia. However, it is very easily accessed from Zakopane by making use of the many Morskie Oko minibuses from the town. Ask the driver to let you off at Lysa Polana which is the old Polish/Slovakian border crossing. Cost should be around 15zl.
Cross the river and then turn immediately to your right onto the trail. This takes you into the beautifully tranquil Bielovodska valley.
You can walk as far as you wish. In fact you can ultimately walk all the way to Stary Smokovec (a town in the Slovakian Tatras) but this involves crossing a high mountain pass which requires the use of chains, rungs and a good head for heights. However, there is no need to trek as far as this. Just enjoy the mighty cliff walls, gushing crystal clear river, open meadows and fragrant forests as a leisurely amble.
Top tip. If you don't want to walk all the way back to the border crossing on your way back, look out for the point across the river to your left where you can see a bridge and hoards of people crossing it as they move on the Morskie Oko road. Wade across the river here and join the crowds making their way to the car park. Here you can jump on a minibus back to Zakopane with the added bonus of actually getting a seat (you are unlikely to have this luxury for your tired limbs if you catch the minibuses from the border post on the way back).
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| Wading the river to the Morskie Oko trail and the minibus back to Zakopane |
Trek 3 - Zakopane panorama from the Gubalowka ridge
This trek is accessed from Krupowki main street. Make your way downhill to the bottom of the street and through the market. You can opt to take the funicular up onto Gubalowka ridge or, if you are full of energy, hike up the path next to the rails.
Once at the top station, turn left and make your way through the stalls along the tarmac road. I once read a suitable quote about this area saying that it puts the "tat into the Tatras". :) Either way, it is an entertaining stroll!
Eventually, the tat stalls thin out and you will end up at a road junction. Walk straight on following the signs for the black trail which proceeds along a dirt track. After a short distance things become a lot more peaceful and you can enjoy birdsong, blooms and butterflies.
If you are feeling you would like to continue your walk, then there is a black trail that continues along the ridge. This is a wonderful walk, affording great views, and will give you a real feel for rural Zakopane life. A small point to note is that if you tackle this trail in spring just after the snow has melted, the trail itself is very rutted, muddy and flooded in places. However, this can be easily avoided by walking on the outer edges of the track instead. Best place to descend the ridge is when you come to an open alpine meadow called Mietlowka with a ruined chalet in the middle of it. A trail will take you down through woodlands to Kierpcowka. Follow the road until it reaches Koscielisko. There is a very impressive wooden church at the junction onto the main road worth a visit. If your feet are aching, then you can catch a bus back to Zakopane at the stop further down the road. The buses are usually minibuses. Simply hop on and pay the driver when you are leaving. The fares are excellent value (around 3 or 4 zl).
